The Earthy Pragmatism of Daniel Lees S/S25 Burberry Show [Video]

September 19, 2024

Lead ImageBurberry Spring/Summer 2025Courtesy of Burberry

What do you think of, when you think of Burberry? For Daniel Lee – as for most of us – the answer is simple, straightforward: the trench coat. Burberry may not actually have invented the garment – its birth in the 19th century as an essential component of officer’s boat uniform is hazy – its etymology obvious comes from the battlefield of the Great War. But the company, under its founder Thomas Burberry, executed it with such authority and refined it through the arena of war in the century’s teens that it became indelibly associated with its name. So Daniel Lee built his entire Spring/Summer 2025 collection around it. “Grounded” was a word he used – and it felt so, the models walking at ground level through the National Theatre without, ironically, any histrionics to distract. Even Gary Hume’s installation, a new work based on his …